Best of Chile’s Carretera Austral and how to plan your road trip
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Explore the Casa Piedra campsite in Patagonia National Park
Patagonia National Park is a vast area of 640,000 acres that was once overgrazed ranch land. It was purchased by former North Face CEO Doug Tompkins and his wife, Kris, who spearheaded the restoration of the grasslands and forests. Once the trees, plants and many species of wildlife returned, the couple donated the land to the Chilean government. (Overall, they restored over 2 million acres in Chile and Argentina.)
All of this land was turned into Ruta del Parques (Route of Parks), comprising 17 national parks, of which Parque Patagonia might be the crown jewel.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Watch a herd of wild guanacos in Patagonia National Park
There’s much to see and do in Parque Patagonia (Patagonia National Park), including watching wildlife, such as the graceful guanaco (a close relative to the llama). Visitors can also trek to restored wetlands and wander through the beautiful Chacabuco Valley.
Afterward, relax in luxurious eco-comfort at the Lodge at Valle Chacabuco. This resort’s modern stone and wood design was inspired by iconic national park lodges from around the world.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Trek in Cerro Castillo National Park
Another stunning Carretera Austral attraction is Cerro Castillo National Park and its lake (Lago Castillo). Named after its tallest mountain, this area is becoming a new option for trekkers wishing to avoid the massive crowds (and difficult permit system) of Torres del Paine further south.
Hikers enjoy the circuit trail that runs through the park, taking travelers over windswept passes, under hanging glaciers and along the gorgeous emerald Lago Castillo.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Gaze at the magnificent Cerro Castillo mountain
You can see the entire Cerro Castillo peak from the highway, but a walk in the backcountry gives superlative closeups, prime camping opportunities and a taste for real Patagonian wilderness.
The park is best visited between October and April, as the austral winter sees heavy snowfall. Fall colors here are also quite spectacular, as the lenga beech forests turn red.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Admire the surreal Capilla de Mármol Natural Sanctuary
The Capilla de Mármol Natural Sanctuary is a top Carretera highlight. Years of erosion by the water of Lake General Carrera have turned these coastal islets and caverns into a series of wind-sculpted pillars and caves and transformed the formations into a surreal pastel landscape (known both as the Marble Chapels and Marble Cathedrals).
If you explore these incredible formations when the sunlight shines into the grottos, you’ll have some superb photo opportunities.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Kayak through the captivating caverns of Capilla de Mármol
At Capilla de Mármol (Marble Cathedral), the optimal way to explore the caverns and colorful formations is by kayak, as they can access the small passageways that regular tour boats cannot. Capilla de Mármol is known to captivate geologists, photographers and outdoor adventure lovers.
Nearby, it’s also fun to visit the small village of Rio Tranquilo, as it’s home to Patagonian cowboys, adventure travel agencies and cute places to stay.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Hike to the Chaitén volcano caldera
The Chaitén volcano erupted in 2008, after thousands of years of dormancy. It destroyed the nearby town of Chaitén and blanketed the surrounding region in ash. Today, this legendary volcano is part of the Pumalín National Park, and you can hike up to the caldera overlook for a stunning view.
From here, you’ll clearly see how the landscape has been altered, as well as how it has been regenerated over the years.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Wander through a village that’s frozen in time
The tiny village of Chaitén still shows some of the devastation from the volcanic eruption, as several of the old homes sit seemingly frozen in time, looking exactly as they did in 2008.
You’ll also find an abundance of hot springs around this area, as well as a quarter of the population of Chile’s alerce trees, which can live to up to 3,000 years.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Visit Ventisquero Colgante, the hanging glacier
Another noteworthy stop along the Carretera Austral is Queulat National Park. Here, you’ll find the impressive Ventisquero Colgante hanging glacier, which crashes and pours into a waterfall below.
You can hike up through the evergreen forest to a viewpoint above the waterfall, or for a unique perspective, take a boat trip on the lake that brings travelers underneath it.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Relax in luxury on the Puyuhuapi fjord
While visiting Queulat National Park, consider treating yourself to a night in Puyuhuapi, a nearby fjord that is home to the enticing Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa, accessible only by boat. This luxurious destination features views of the fjord and the national park – and it’s also home to a natural hot spring. It’s a comfortable place to unwind and enjoy a bit of pampering in this rugged setting.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Raft and kayak on the Futaleufú River
Well worth a side trip, Futaleufú is a small town and river valley off the Carretera Austral (near the Argentinian border). It’s home to the Futaleufú River, one of the premier rafting and kayaking water routes in South America. Futaleufú is an indigenous Mapuche word for “Big River,” and it attracts avid outdoor enthusiasts throughout the year.
Fed by glacial melt, the water of the Futaleufú is a beautiful turquoise, and it’s one of only two rivers that cross the over 3,000 mile Chile-Argentina border.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
View the famous Futaleufú River from above
Considered one of the top whitewater destinations on the planet, Futaleufú (or the “Fu” as it’s locally called) is home to Class V rapids, which includes the notorious Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) waterfall, best viewed from off the water. The whitewater season here runs from December to April, and the town hosts an annual river festival during this timeframe.
Fortunately, not all the sections of the Fu are so intense. Those seeking some serene kayaking can find several calm passages, and there is plenty of hiking nearby that offers stellar views of the river from above.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Cross Lago General Carrera, Chile’s largest lake
The glacial General Carrera Lake is the largest along the Carretera (and in all of Chile for that matter), winding east into Argentina as well, where it’s called Lake Buenos Aires.
The beautiful Capilla de Mármol are set along its shores, and you can access the western end of Parque Patagonia from the lakeside town of Chile Chico. Road trippers can cut miles off of a Carretera drive here by taking the ferry across the lake to arrive near the base of Cerro Castillo.
Be sure to check the weather report before heading out on the lake, as it has a reputation for being a treacherous body of water. This lake is nearly 2,000 feet deep in certain places, storms are frequent and the wind can be brutal. (Doug Tompkins, responsible for creating many of the country’s national parks, was killed in a kayaking accident on this lake in 2015.)
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Hike through Pumalín National Park
Parque Pumalín is home to the aforementioned Chaitén volcano, as well as several vast areas on the northern end of the Carretera Austral. Tranquil and expansive, there are many opportunities to enjoy nature here, including fjords where you can see dolphins and other wildlife.
Just off the main road, you can hike through the tranquil forest to the Michinmahuida volcano, which boasts a long glacier and plenty of solitude. Afterwards, it’s fun to soak in the Termas El Amarillo hot springs (located not far from the park gate).
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Hitch a ride to town
Make sure to explore the funky “wild west” towns along the Carretera, like Cochrane, Puerto Rio Tranquilo or Villa O’ Higgins. They offer plenty of local color.
Hitchhiking on the Carretera Austral is extremely common, as bus services here are very limited. In most towns, you’ll see backpackers, loaded down with camping equipment and lined up along both sides of the road throughout the day.
Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis
Take it slow and soak it all in
A journey along the Carretera Austral is not to be rushed. Most of all, be sure to slow down and soak in the experience. The local gauchos still travel by horse, and the regional sensibility is to enjoy life. As they say here, “Quien se apura en Patagonia pierde el tiempo,” meaning, “He who rushes in Patagonia wastes time.”
Personally, I believe it’s a place to linger long and savor forever.
